Breeding rabbits is generally a very easy thing to do, but there are a few rules to follow and some bits of information I’d like to give you. First off, make sure the rabbits you will be breeding are indeed one male and one female (putting two of the same gender together usually results in fights) and that they are proper age.
The first rule of breeding rabbits is that you should bring the doe to the buck’s cage or a neutral place. NEVER take the buck to the doe’s cage. Does can be extremely territorial and can do serious harm to a buck if she doesn’t want him in her home. Also, some does have been known to cannibalize litters when bred in their own cage.
Rabbits do not go in heat like dogs or horses, do. Instead, they are called induced ovulators. Mating causes the release of eggs into the uterus. However, hormonal fluctuations may make a doe more or less receptive to breeding. The fluctuations aren’t on any kind of determinable cycle, though. Breeding can be forced and still be effective, but breeding a willing doe will usually result in a larger litter. The easiest indicator of readiness is that the doe will lift her tail when stroked backwards (from tail to shoulder). Some does aren’t trusting enough to let you just pet them, though, so you’ll have to check her vulva. A red or dark pink, swollen, moist vulva indicates receptivity, as opposed to a drier, pale pink vulva.
Some people choose to leave the doe in the buck’s cage for an extended period of time (up to three days). However, I don’t recommend it. Again, does can do serious damage to a buck if unattended. Studies have actually shown that the best method is to allow the rabbits to mate, separate them, and then rebreed an hour later.
When you bring the doe to the buck’s cage, watch to make sure that the doe does not attack the buck. Both rabbits may grunt and whine when they first meet, and even stamp their feet. Watch carefully if the doe starts stamping--it may be the only warning she gives before she attacks.
Sometimes the buck will try to mount her head instead of the proper way around. Gently swing his body around until he’s properly lined up. Some does have been known to cause serious permanent damage to a buck’s penis for mounting the wrong end (but it’s rare). If the doe has her rump in the corner of the cage, try swinging her rump around to be more accessible. If the doe starts to hump the buck, just pull the buck out from under her and position him on top.
When the buck ejaculates he will usually seize and scrunch up, grunt and fall over (sideways or backwards). This is normal. If he doesn’t seize and fall over, he probably hasn’t ejaculated. Many bucks will then start grunting or whining and stamping his feet around the doe. I call it “worrying”, but it’s nothing to worry about.
If at any time the doe makes a move to attack the buck or is obviously not interested, remove the doe and try again later. Sometimes when it is too hot, neither rabbit will be interested. It is usually best to put them together in the morning or evening hours, when rabbits are naturally most active. If you have a doe that is particularly snarky, you may want to consider holding her in place for the buck.
When you remove the doe after breeding, feel around her rump and tail to make sure he didn’t ejaculate on her fur. Some people actually flip the doe over and check her vulva for a deposit.
The first rule of breeding rabbits is that you should bring the doe to the buck’s cage or a neutral place. NEVER take the buck to the doe’s cage. Does can be extremely territorial and can do serious harm to a buck if she doesn’t want him in her home. Also, some does have been known to cannibalize litters when bred in their own cage.
Rabbits do not go in heat like dogs or horses, do. Instead, they are called induced ovulators. Mating causes the release of eggs into the uterus. However, hormonal fluctuations may make a doe more or less receptive to breeding. The fluctuations aren’t on any kind of determinable cycle, though. Breeding can be forced and still be effective, but breeding a willing doe will usually result in a larger litter. The easiest indicator of readiness is that the doe will lift her tail when stroked backwards (from tail to shoulder). Some does aren’t trusting enough to let you just pet them, though, so you’ll have to check her vulva. A red or dark pink, swollen, moist vulva indicates receptivity, as opposed to a drier, pale pink vulva.
Some people choose to leave the doe in the buck’s cage for an extended period of time (up to three days). However, I don’t recommend it. Again, does can do serious damage to a buck if unattended. Studies have actually shown that the best method is to allow the rabbits to mate, separate them, and then rebreed an hour later.
When you bring the doe to the buck’s cage, watch to make sure that the doe does not attack the buck. Both rabbits may grunt and whine when they first meet, and even stamp their feet. Watch carefully if the doe starts stamping--it may be the only warning she gives before she attacks.
Sometimes the buck will try to mount her head instead of the proper way around. Gently swing his body around until he’s properly lined up. Some does have been known to cause serious permanent damage to a buck’s penis for mounting the wrong end (but it’s rare). If the doe has her rump in the corner of the cage, try swinging her rump around to be more accessible. If the doe starts to hump the buck, just pull the buck out from under her and position him on top.
When the buck ejaculates he will usually seize and scrunch up, grunt and fall over (sideways or backwards). This is normal. If he doesn’t seize and fall over, he probably hasn’t ejaculated. Many bucks will then start grunting or whining and stamping his feet around the doe. I call it “worrying”, but it’s nothing to worry about.
If at any time the doe makes a move to attack the buck or is obviously not interested, remove the doe and try again later. Sometimes when it is too hot, neither rabbit will be interested. It is usually best to put them together in the morning or evening hours, when rabbits are naturally most active. If you have a doe that is particularly snarky, you may want to consider holding her in place for the buck.
When you remove the doe after breeding, feel around her rump and tail to make sure he didn’t ejaculate on her fur. Some people actually flip the doe over and check her vulva for a deposit.
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