Once your doe is bred, you pretty much just have a waiting game. Rabbit gestation is usually 28-32 days, but I have heard of some does having their kits as early as 25 days, and have seen some have them as late as 35 days.
About halfway through the pregnancy, you will want to increase her feed. I usually let them have as much as they want at that point. Some breeders will tell you to withhold feed from her the last couple of days before she kindles, since she probably won’t eat much anyway, and to discourage caked udder. I’ve never had a problem with caked udder, though. Having given birth, myself, find it cruel to withhold food at that point. If she’s not hungry, she’ll not eat.
Some people say that their doe’s behavior will change when she’s pregnant. I’ve seen does get more complacent, and I’ve seen them get testier. Usually, they go to one extreme or the other right before kindling. It’s just hormones. Every pregnant female goes through the same thing. It’s nothing to worry about. Those hormones will rule her behaviour through nursing, too. She may have a different personality while pregnant than while nursing. Some of the nastier nursing does are the best mothers, but I’ve had very sweet does make excellent mothers as well.
The doe will need a nestbox before she kindles. Because I’ve heard of does having kits as early as day 25, I provide the nest box on that day. Other breeders will tell you not to put it in until day 27 or even day 28. I’d rather not risk losing an entire litter because I was too late giving her a nestbox. The nestbox should be filled with some sort of nesting material. I prefer straw, since it is less likely to be eaten than hay. Some people have also used aspen shavings. Newspaper strips can be used in an emergency, but will require changing out within a day or two. Do not use sawdust or cedar shavings. Avoid anything that has mold or is overly dusty. Rabbits have sensitive respiratory systems and young kits are very susceptible to eye infections, as well.
If the doe starts using the nest box for a toilet, clean it out and put it back in her cage in a different corner. Most likely you accidentally put the nest box in the corner she usually uses for her bathroom. Also make sure that the nest box you’ve provided isn’t too big. You don’t want her lounging around in the nest.
Some does will rearrange the nesting material as soon as they have the box, others will ignore it until they’re in full blown labor. However, even does that start nesting right away, and seem to nest constantly won’t seem frantic until they’re in labor. Once they’re in labor, you can expect the kits that evening or the following morning. If the doe is acting frantic more than two evenings or two mornings in a row, you may want to consider taking her to a vet to make sure that a kit isn’t stuck. The real indicator would be if you notice blood in the cage and no kits.
The doe should pull fur from her dewlap and belly right before or right after having the kits. If you see kits in the nest and no fur, gently pluck some fur from her sides to cover the babies.
When you check the nest box, try to do so as unobtrusively as possible. The best way is to glance into the nestbox from outside the cage. Don’t bother the mom if you don’t have to. Over-stressed new mothers have been known to cannibalize kits. If it looks like there are kits in the nest, put a small dab of vanilla extract on her nose before getting into the nest to count the kits and remove any dead ones. Do NOT leave any dead kits in the nest.
If any kits were born on the wire and are still alive, move them immediately into the nest with their littermates, and check back in a couple hours to make sure it didn’t die anyway. If it is still alive after 4 hours, it will most likely make it.
The kits should be round like ping-pong balls. If their sides are sucked in or you can see their spine, the mother is most likely not nursing them and you will have to raise them by hand.
About halfway through the pregnancy, you will want to increase her feed. I usually let them have as much as they want at that point. Some breeders will tell you to withhold feed from her the last couple of days before she kindles, since she probably won’t eat much anyway, and to discourage caked udder. I’ve never had a problem with caked udder, though. Having given birth, myself, find it cruel to withhold food at that point. If she’s not hungry, she’ll not eat.
Some people say that their doe’s behavior will change when she’s pregnant. I’ve seen does get more complacent, and I’ve seen them get testier. Usually, they go to one extreme or the other right before kindling. It’s just hormones. Every pregnant female goes through the same thing. It’s nothing to worry about. Those hormones will rule her behaviour through nursing, too. She may have a different personality while pregnant than while nursing. Some of the nastier nursing does are the best mothers, but I’ve had very sweet does make excellent mothers as well.
The doe will need a nestbox before she kindles. Because I’ve heard of does having kits as early as day 25, I provide the nest box on that day. Other breeders will tell you not to put it in until day 27 or even day 28. I’d rather not risk losing an entire litter because I was too late giving her a nestbox. The nestbox should be filled with some sort of nesting material. I prefer straw, since it is less likely to be eaten than hay. Some people have also used aspen shavings. Newspaper strips can be used in an emergency, but will require changing out within a day or two. Do not use sawdust or cedar shavings. Avoid anything that has mold or is overly dusty. Rabbits have sensitive respiratory systems and young kits are very susceptible to eye infections, as well.
If the doe starts using the nest box for a toilet, clean it out and put it back in her cage in a different corner. Most likely you accidentally put the nest box in the corner she usually uses for her bathroom. Also make sure that the nest box you’ve provided isn’t too big. You don’t want her lounging around in the nest.
Some does will rearrange the nesting material as soon as they have the box, others will ignore it until they’re in full blown labor. However, even does that start nesting right away, and seem to nest constantly won’t seem frantic until they’re in labor. Once they’re in labor, you can expect the kits that evening or the following morning. If the doe is acting frantic more than two evenings or two mornings in a row, you may want to consider taking her to a vet to make sure that a kit isn’t stuck. The real indicator would be if you notice blood in the cage and no kits.
The doe should pull fur from her dewlap and belly right before or right after having the kits. If you see kits in the nest and no fur, gently pluck some fur from her sides to cover the babies.
When you check the nest box, try to do so as unobtrusively as possible. The best way is to glance into the nestbox from outside the cage. Don’t bother the mom if you don’t have to. Over-stressed new mothers have been known to cannibalize kits. If it looks like there are kits in the nest, put a small dab of vanilla extract on her nose before getting into the nest to count the kits and remove any dead ones. Do NOT leave any dead kits in the nest.
If any kits were born on the wire and are still alive, move them immediately into the nest with their littermates, and check back in a couple hours to make sure it didn’t die anyway. If it is still alive after 4 hours, it will most likely make it.
The kits should be round like ping-pong balls. If their sides are sucked in or you can see their spine, the mother is most likely not nursing them and you will have to raise them by hand.
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